I was officially on vacation! Those 3 days before leaving for Italy were busy, busy with last minute errands and shopping. And as you can see, there was some objection to my leaving for 10 days.
Then the day finally arrived! My shuttle picked me up right on time (4:00 a.m. - yikes!) and the other passengers and I arrived at LAX at 4:30 a.m. The American Airlines terminal was busy, even at that ungodly hour. But getting to Italy was going be a challenge, as I found out throughout the day. As I stood in line at the kiosk to get my boarding pass, I looked down to discover I had left my coat on the shuttle. Great, considering the forcast was for rain in Florence and Rome during my stay. As I approached the security area, I grabbed a plastic bin to place my shoes, purse and tickets during the scanning process. The bin had a paper liner in it, which I found out was disguised as an ad. As I took off my shoes, I glanced over to the bin and saw a picture of Kim Kardashian staring back at me, smiling while showing off her enhanced body parts and her Sketcher "Shape Ups" - is there anything that family won't do to stay in the public eye? A bin liner at LAX passenger security? Obviously not. Only in L.A.!
My flight was a smooth one and we arrived in Boston in the late afternoon. When I got into the terminal, I decided to check my email, just for the heck of it. It's a good thing I did. I had a message from Expedia telling me my flight to Florence had been cancelled/rescheduled. I'll back up a little bit here. My itinerary was LAX-Boston-Paris-Florence. My flight from Boston to Paris was supposed to arrive in Paris at 6:00 a.m. and my connecting flight to Florence was at 7:30 a.m. I really wanted that intinerary because I had hoped to arrive at the hotel in Montecatini (our base in Tuscany) at a decent hour so I could adjust (sort of) to the time change and relax before we literally hit the road Monday morning. Well, the best laid plans . . . my flight from Paris to Florence on Air France was now at 4:00 p.m. That meant I would have to spend all day at the Charles DeGaulle Airport. Exhausted.
But the flight to Paris was wonderful. Air France couldn't have offered better service, food or generous amounts of alcohol (in coach, no less!). I had never flown on a 747 so it was all new to me. I tried to enjoy the flight, to forget as best I could about the long day (and wait) ahead. After arriving in Paris, I took the shuttle to my appointed terminal, and sat in the airport, vaguely listening to the flight announcements to Florence. I finally requested to be put on an earlier flight. LOL. True to their word, my flight at 4:00 p.m. was right on time and we arrived in Florence at around 5:45. What a dinky airport! I expected something much larger. The baggage area only had 3 little carousels. Perhaps we were in an older terminal, there must have been more to this airport. But when I found my driver outside the baggage area, I didn't care about the size of the airport or anything else except getting to the hotel in Montecatini Terme, settling in and meeting my fellow travelers.
I joined the group in the hotel bar for prosecco and snacks and we introduced ourselves to each other. I knew I would never remember their names, I was so exhausted. We then moved into the dining room for dinner. The wine was flowing but I was cautious, knowing how fast it would go to my tired head. I just wanted to go to bed!
Dinner started with a very strange salad, greens covered with sliced deli turkey. Hmm. And the only salad dressing we were offered during our entire stay was olive oil and red wine vinegar. No balsamico?? Next came the primo course, farfalle arrabiatta. I had never had it before but could tell it was missing an important ingredient, the pepperoncini. Very bland. For secondi, we had veal scallopini with sage mashed potatoes. That was delicious but by this time, I was full and ready to nod off. And I had forgotten about the many courses in an Italian dinner. I would have been happy with just a salad and pasta. I actually waived off dessert, fresh strawberries and vanilla ice cream. This is why my blog is called what it is. So much food! Dinner was finally over, we said goodnight and I finally was able to lay my head on my pillow. Tomorrow would start with an early wake up call, the bus would be at the hotel at 8:30 a.m. sharp!
Monday, May 23rd - Morning in Siena, Afternoon in San Gimignano
The day started out with a buffet breakfast in the hotel dining room. Italians don't usually eat breakfast like we do, they might grab a roll and some of that wonderful Italian coffee. But our hotel certainly put on a spread for us. I was trying to eat "healthy" with plain yogurt, fruit salad and a little bit of granola (with an occasional piece of toast or scrambled egg). Which was fine except we had to question how the cooks prepared the fruit salad. It was mostly cut up apples with an occasional kiwi or strawberry. Very different! Our bus was waiting for us in front of the hotel, a small bus that seated 20. It was very comfortable and had great air conditioning, which was a good thing since the weather was much warmer than had been predicted. And it didn't rain so leaving my coat behind didn't pose a problem after all. Below is a picture of our tour manager, Gabriella. She was THE BEST tour guide ever. She was so knowledgable and took very good care of us during our stay in Tuscany.
We arrived in Siena after a beautiful drive. So the journey began. After a short walk by some lovely fountains
we came upon the Sanctuary of Santa Caterina, incorporating the old house of St. Catherine of Siena. It houses the miraculous Crucifix (late 12th century) from which the saint received her stigmata, and a 15th century statue of St. Catherine.
We walked (more like hiked) through some of the neighborhoods or wards of Siena, which are known as "contrade."
Each contrada has its own boundary and distinct identity represented by an animal or mascot. Ward rivalries are most rampant during the annual horse race (Palio) in the Piazza del Campo.
We then went on to the Piazza Salimbeni, home of the Palazzo Salimbeni, a notable building and also the medieval headquarters of Monte dei Paschi di Siena, one of the oldest banks in continuous existence and a major player in the Sienese economy. Banking has a long history in Siena.
Each side of the palazzo had a different style of windows meaning each wall was built in a different era.
On our way to the Piazzo del Campo, we passed by some shops featuring sweets, pasta and other local specialties
Next stop, the Piazza del Campo, the town square, which, among other things, is famous for hosting the Palio di Siena.
The Palio di Siena is a traditional medieval horse race run around the Piazza del Campo twice each year, on July 2 and August 16. The event is attended by large crowds and is widely televised. Seventeen contrade vie for the trophy: a painted banner, or Palio, bearing an image of the Blessed Virgin Mary. For each race a new Palio is commissioned by well-known artists and Palios won over many years can often be seen in the local contrade museum. During each Palio period, the city is decked out in lamps and flags bearing the contrade colours.
We had lunch at Ristorante al Mangia overlooking the Piazza del Campo which featured long tables and lots of noisy conversation.
We had lunch at Ristorante al Mangia overlooking the Piazza del Campo which featured long tables and lots of noisy conversation.
On the menu: bruschetta with fresh roma tomatoes and basil on crostini brushed with olive oil and garlic, a green salad then fresh pasta in a delicious Bolognese sauce.
After lunch, we passed by this shop, kind of an Italian deli with lots of salami and cheeses
The ceiling of the Duomo was very ornate, unfortunately this is the only good shot I got.
After spending many wonderful hours in Siena, we met up with our bus, and off we went to our next stop, San Gimignano. We caught a glimpse of the hilltop town that morning on our way to Siena.
Unfortunately, our bus approached from the back side of the town so we didn't have an opportunity to explore what is shown in the picture. I took these pictures on our way up the hill from the parking area
What a beautiful view of the Tuscan hills and vineyards!
Tuesday, May 24 - Firenze
Florence - I was so excited! We took a local train from the Montecatini Terme station, which was within walking distance of our hotel. Arriving at the station in Florence, I was overwhelmed by the huge swarm of people in the train station. And we encountered huge crowds wherever we went in Florence.
As we walked to the Accademia di Belle Arti, we passed by the Duomo (which is HUGE) and were told the outside is much more ornate than the interior. We didn't go inside due to time restraints, so I'll take our guide's word for it!
We also passed by the Gates of Paradise. I couldn't get the whole door in the frame because there were so many people crowding around. But they were beautiful!
We proceeded through the crowded and busy streets to the Accademia. There were long lines of people waiting to buy tickets and our local guide said the people would be waiting up to 3 hours to gain entrance. But not our group! She went inside and within a few minutes we were escorted through the front doors. She gave us a brief history of Michaelangelo's statue of David and then we entered the room where it stood. You could hear the audible gasps at the first glimpse. What a magnificent piece of art.
This original statue is 15 feet high and has been housed at the Accademia since 1873, located previously outdoors on the Piazza della Signoria. As we walked around the statue, our guide explained that it was carved from one giant piece of marble mined from the Carrara mountain range north of Florence. She pointed out the many intricate details of the piece. We also viewed the small collection of Michelangelo's work including his four unfinished Prisoners, intended for the tomb of Pope Julius II, and a statue of Saint Matthew, also unfinished. In 1939 these were joined by a Pieta, featuring a more realistic (meaning older) rendition of Mary cradling Jesus, as compared to the much more youthful face of Mary in the Pieta in Saint Peter's Basilica in Rome. A very moving visit indeed.
This original statue is 15 feet high and has been housed at the Accademia since 1873, located previously outdoors on the Piazza della Signoria. As we walked around the statue, our guide explained that it was carved from one giant piece of marble mined from the Carrara mountain range north of Florence. She pointed out the many intricate details of the piece. We also viewed the small collection of Michelangelo's work including his four unfinished Prisoners, intended for the tomb of Pope Julius II, and a statue of Saint Matthew, also unfinished. In 1939 these were joined by a Pieta, featuring a more realistic (meaning older) rendition of Mary cradling Jesus, as compared to the much more youthful face of Mary in the Pieta in Saint Peter's Basilica in Rome. A very moving visit indeed.
Time for lunch! Gabriella made reservations for us at the Santa Elisabetta Ristorante in the Hotel Brunelleschi. The hotel houses an old cylindrical tower believed to be a part of the walls built by the Byzantines between 541 and 544 to defend the city from the Goths. And the restaurant just happened to be in that tower:
Our lunch consisted of a nicoise salad, Tuscan bread with oil and Tuscan beans, asparagus ravioli with butter and sage sauce and a Florentine zuccotto for dessert. We also enjoyed delicious regional red and white wines with our meal. A very elegant meal in such a rustic and historic setting!
During our afternoon travels, we passed by a small street vendor selling colorful produce
I can't remember the history attached to the two pictures below, but I'm thinking they have something to do with the Medici family.
Here's a view down the river
And an exterior view of the shops on the "old bridge"
And the actual street of shops
And all the goodies
After resisting that temptation, we walked on to the Basilica of Santa Croce but some of the ladies in our group were much more excited to see the leather shop on the street outside the church. There were several other vendors selling leather goods and other touristy things.
I should have gone into the church instead of browsing through the stalls in the area. I didn't wear clothing that covered my shoulders and knees (a requirement at many churches worldwide) for nothing! Funny, the only church that really required that was St. Peter's Basilica in Rome. But I was always ready! Note the Star of David at the top of the church. A Jewish architect named Niccolo Matas from Ancona designed the church's 19th century neo-Gothic facade, working a prominent Star of David into the composition.
The walk back to the Florence train station seemed like it took forever and the hot weather didn't make it any easier. We were all glad to get off our feet and back on the train. I loved Florence but disliked the crowds. I can't begin to imagine how it must be during the summer vacation months!
Wednesday, May 25 - Cinque Terre
Cinque Terre means "Five Lands" and is composed of five villages: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore located on the rugged shores of the Italian Riviera. The villages are only accessible by ferry boat or train. The region is absolutely stunning, and without further adieu, here are my pictures of one of the most beautiful places in Italy.
This is the little town of Porto Venere, where we met the ferry
A sweet little cat asleep in a shop doorway
And friendly too
And here is another wall shrine similar to the one we saw in Florence
This street had many small shops, and one of them gave out samples of freshly made pesto. This area, and the region of Liguria as a whole, is known for its delicious pesto.
More narrow streets to explore while we waited for the ferry to arrive
The harbor
We saw a church and a cemetary atop a hill as we left Porto Venere to the open sea
Below is Corniglia, which is only accessible by train
A walking trail, known as Senetiero Azzurro ("Light Blue Trail"), connects the five villages. The trail from Riomaggiore to Manarola is called the Via Dell'Amore ("Love Walk") and is wheelchair-friendly. The stretch from Manarola to Corniglia is the easiest to hike, although the main trail into Corniglia finishes with a climb of 368 stairs. The trail from Corniglia to Vernazza is steep at certain places. The trail from Vernazza to Monterosso is by far the steepest. It winds through olive orchards and vineyards and is rough in places, but offers the best view of the bay and the spectacular approaches to both Monterosso and Vernazza. The difference in height for the whole Sentiero Azzurro is more than 600 meters and the length is more than 10 kilometers (6.2 miles). It takes approximately 5 hours to walk it. You can see part of the walking trail in the picture below.
Local trains from La Spezia to Genoa and the rest of the region's network connect the "five lands." Intercity trains also connect the Cinque Terre to Milan, Rome, Turin and Tuscany. The tracks run most of the distance in tunnels between Riomaggiore and Monterosso. Trains occasionally emerge from the tunnels along the way and there are quick glimpses of the Mediterranean; it's definitely the quickest and easiest way to move around the area. A train station is shown below.
We arrived in Vernazza for a short break and some exploration
I loved this little seaside osteria.
And two of my favorite ingredients - limone e aglio!
Below is an exclusive (and expensive) resort built into the cliff. Next trip ;)
Approaching the port of Monterosso al Mare where we had lunch.
Here's another picture of the hotel on the cliff. You can see the walking trail to the left of the hotel.
We had lunch at Al Pozzo Ristorante, another small restaurant with long tables, lots of wine and noisy conversation, which really enhanced the Italian dining experience. We started our meal with a mixed green salad, then came bowls of fresh hot pasta dressed with Liguria's legendary pesto. A bowl of freshly grated parmigiano reggiano also made the rounds. I had to have seconds of that delicious pasta. Our main course was grilled swordfish. It was the freshest fish I have ever tasted, and I'm betting they caught it that morning. Our meal ended with tiramisu. Delizioso!
And Cinque Terre at sunset (just had to throw that one in)
Thursday, May 26th - Lucca, Lunch at a Local Winery and Pisa
And Cinque Terre at sunset (just had to throw that one in)
Thursday, May 26th - Lucca, Lunch at a Local Winery and Pisa
I fell in love with Lucca - it is truly one of the gems of the Tuscan Crown (I made that up but it certainly fits!)
We took the local train north for a brief ride. After a short walk from the station in Lucca, we met our charming local guide who was born and raised in Lucca. Lucca is a small town surrounded by intact Renaissance-era city walls. They are not just built of stone or brick but are reinforced with earth so that Lucca's enemies could not infiltrate the town. Below is a picture of a section of wall that surrounds Lucca
And here's a view from the top
The walls are very tall.
Lucca became prosperous through the silk trade that began in the 11th century. It's primary export now is paper goods, namely toilet paper! Car traffic is minimal and most people ride bicycles for transportation.
Lucca became prosperous through the silk trade that began in the 11th century. It's primary export now is paper goods, namely toilet paper! Car traffic is minimal and most people ride bicycles for transportation.
Did I tell you I'm moving to Lucca? Here is a picture of my new home
I wish ;)
Our guide first took us to this church, the Church of San Frediano. It was modest compared to other churches we saw but still very beautiful.
And here's another one of those side-of-the-building shrines.
And here we are going through a tunnel into the Piazza Anfiteatro.
This is the The Cathedral of St Martin.
In the nave, a small octagonal temple or chapel shrine contains the most precious relic in Lucca, the Volto Santo di Lucca or Sacred Countenance. This cedar-wood crucifix and image of Christ, according to the legend, was carved by his contemporary Nicodemus, and miraculously conveyed to Lucca in 782.
This image of Christ is said to be the true face of Jesus.
We saw a beautiful carousel in the Piazza Napoleone.
and a statue of Giacomo Antonio Domenico Michele Secondo Maria Puccini (Puccini to his friends), the Italian composer who was born in Lucca. His operas, including La Boheme, Tosca, Madama Butterfly, and Turandot, are among the most frequently performed in the standard repertoire.
And as we left Lucca, I spotted a leather purse I wanted to get for my niece who was house/cat sitting for me - you can see an off-white flower purse on the left. I got the address of the shop in the picture.
And took a picture of the street corner because a group of us had decided to forego returning to Florence for an encore visit to Lucca on Saturday. I would buy the purse then.
Afterward, we went to Fattoria il Poggio Winery and enjoyed a wonderful lunch inside the cool brick building that housed the winery's huge wooden barrels.
The vineyards
Wine I.G.T. Montecarlo DOC - White wine Montecarlo DOC - Red wine Montecarlo DOC - Vino Bianco Otium DOC - Vino Red Otium DOC
Vin Santo (dessert wine) and almond biscotti, Grappa
All of the above can be served with pasta.
And we had the pasta as part of our lunch, a delicious light meat sauce with freshly made pappardelle and grated local cheese. And the wines they offered were truly amazing. I was a little hesitant to drink the Vin Santo having had a sparkling version here in the States that I didn't care for. But the more biscotti I dipped into it, the more I liked it. Nothing like getting buzzed on dessert! I took one whiff of the grappa and politely declined. I might have tried it if I didn't have to get up and walk! The winery also sold their products so I bought two bottles of their Sangiovese to share with the ladies during our nightly "cocktail hour," some great looking dried porcini mushrooms which I'm saving for a fall prep of Italian Hunter's Stew, and a spice concoction that turned out to be way too hot for my taste. I'll use it in my pasta sauces, adding a pinch like I would add red pepper flakes.
We then traveled on to Pisa. While some of the group napped, I remained wide awake, not wanting to miss a thing. When our bus arrived at the parking area near our destination, we were surrounded by a large group of foreign street people, hawking watches, jewelry, sunglasses and umbrellas. It was really hot that day, I suppose that's why umbrellas were a popular item for sale. When our driver finally shooed them away, we were able to disembark. We walked along the ancient wall to the entrance, and all the while Gabriella gave us basic facts about the Tower. There were vendor carts all around us - which did not fit in with this historic location. We turned and entered through the gates and got our first glimpse -
Ok, I did break down and buy some pencils with Pinocchio's wooden head on them. The author of the beloved children's book grew up in a small village near Pisa.
Friday, May 27 - Modena and Bologna
The next morning we were off to Acetaia Villa San Donnino, a small family vineyard just outside of Modena to see how "aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena" was produced and best of all, to taste the different varieties. Mmm, I love the stuff! We were warmly greeted by one of the villa's employees, who walked us through the different steps of producing this wonderful vinegar. We went into the production house and up to the small attic to see the small wooden barrels that contained the aging vinegar:
We then took a tour of the family's villa. I have to say, just about everywhere we went I exclaimed "I want to live here!" This villa was no different.
Here we are in the sitting room. Time for tea!
The other staircase was in the "living room" which we learned was used in the film "1900" starring Robert DeNiro. Our guide showed us a clip from the movie which was fun to see before we walked through the actual area where the scene was filmed.
The villa was full of priceless art and antiques. What a beautiful home. Now, on to our lunch out in the garden area with a view of the vineyards.
Our light lunch included white and red Trebbiano wine, individual plates with chunks of parmegiano reggiano, roasted red peppers and ricotta cheese drizzled with balsamic vinegar and served with wedges of warm pita-type bread. Then came a platter of prosciutto, cappicola and sopressata with freshly baked biscuits to make little Italian sliders, if you will. Dessert was sliced fresh strawberries and vanilla ice cream served separately but drizzled with thick balsamic syrup. Molto bene!
We met up with our local guide, Massimo, and walked with him through the city as he pointed out important sights of Bolognese history.
And here is another building whose windows are different indicating sections of the building were built in different eras.
Below on the right is a church that was being extensively remodeled. The cover over the front of the church shows what the facade will look like when the work is finished.
And there is King Neptune with some of his lady friends and a few "homies"
The next photo is a memorial wall featuring pictures of men and women who died during WWII. I was astounded to hear that so many families lost all of their children to the war - their photographs were embedded in the wall along with their names. So many had the same last name, brothers and sisters who volunteered to fight the enemy and lost their lives. Bologna was bombed very extensively during the war which destroyed much of the historic relics and buildings. Seeing this war memorial was a very moving experience.
The next pictures were taken in the medical school auditorium at the University, where autopsies were performed back in the days of Leonardi da Vinci. Did you know that da Vinci wasn't his last name? He was an illegitimate child, born in the town of Vinci. So he took the name of the town, hence "Leonardo of Vinci." Just a little fun fact :)
Today was our "free" day to explore Montecatini Terme, where our hotel was located, enjoy the services of the hotel spa or do whatever else we pleased. A group of us knew Saturday meant a return to Lucca. We boarded the local train for the short ride. Gabriella had told us at the train station on the way to Florence that there was a little yellow box on the wall near the exits to the tracks where you had to get your ticket punched, or validated. If you didn't and the conductor asked to see your ticket and it wasn't punched, you would have to pay a fine of 5 Euro or approximately US$7.50. The train to Lucca was pretty empty and it was just our luck that the conductor came around to check tickets. A few of my fellow travelers didn't validate their tickets, saying they hadn't heard Gabriella in the Florence train station. They pretended not to understand the conductor but when he pulled out the rules in English, well, they had to pay up!
We wandered through the streets, taking in the sights and sounds while doing more shopping. We came upon a small outdoor craft fair with about 25 vendors selling their wares, from ceramics to jewelry to clothing. After all walking and shopping, we had worked up an appetite for lunch. We found a little outdoor cafe on the Piazza Napoleone, near that beautiful carousel we saw on our last visit. In true Italian style, we shared salads, pizzas and wine under the warm Tuscan sun and could hear an accordian playing nearby - it doesn't get any better than that!
and made our way back to Montecatini Terme to get ready for our last dinner in Tuscany, at a restaurant in Montecatini Alto, located on a hill overlooking Montecatini Terme. It is a small medieval village that features a funicular that began running in 1898 and runs from the bottom to the top of the hill.
The walk into the town was another hill-climbing challenge so I was glad I wore my walking shoes and not heels, although some of our group dressed up for the occasion. Below are several shots I took of the view from the road leading to the top of the hill.
We visited the local church and chapel, so old yet so beautiful. We then walked back down the hill to the restaurant, anxiously awaiting to see what Gabriella had ordered for us. We were seated outside and yes, I took pictures of this meal!
A green salad followed, then a bowl of ribolitta, a traditional Tuscan soup made with bread and vegetables. There are many variations but the main ingredients always include leftover bread, cannellini beans and inexpensive vegetables such as carrots, cabbage, beans, kale, beets and onion. Its name literally means "reboiled." It was delicious!
Next came the pasta course, a ricotta stuffed spinach ravioli with a creamy mushroom sauce topped with ribbons of fresh basil.
And finally, tiramisu.
And lots of wine. A true Tuscan meal!
The view as we left Montecatini Alto
Sunday, May 29th - We're Off to Conquer Rome!
Next stop, the Trevi Fountain. The fountain stands Standing 85.3 feet high and 65.6 feet wide and is the largest Baroque fountain in the city and one of the most famous fountains in the world.
Then on to The Pantheon. The Pantheon was commissioned by Marcus Agrippa as a temple to all the gods of Ancient Rome, and rebuilt by Emperor Hadrian in about 126 AD. The generic term pantheon has sometimes been applied to other buildings in which illustrious dead are honored or buried. This building is HUGE as you can see, the people milling around in front are tiny. The columns in front were made of single slabs of marble, from Carrara, Italy; the front doors from solid bronze. The ceiling opens to the heavens.
I apologize, my shots of the interior did not come out, but it was a very fascinating building.
More shots around Rome
That evening was our last night with Gabriella, so we all had dinner together at a small sidewalk trattoria near our hotel. We started off with a green salad then a traditional Roman dish, pasta alla matriciana. The sugo (sauce) combines guanciale (dried pork cheek which tastes similar to pancetta or bacon), pecorino cheese and tomatoes. To die for! I think it had a bit of peperoncino in it too. Gabriella asked us if we knew which pork product would be in the sauce and smarty-pants here knew it was guanciale, having had it before in one of the best pasta alla carbonaras I've ever eaten. The next course was braised lamb shanks, served with herb and cheese polenta. And lastly, gelato for dessert. What a meal!
We then met our guide for the day and headed to the Vatican Museum. I have to say, paying more for a trip like this was so worth the money. We had wonderful accomodations, spectacular food and wine and the sights we saw, unforgettable. But not having to wait in the lengthy lines to get into the museums, etc. was such a bonus. Once again, like in Florence, our guide left us right outside the museum entrance, went inside and within a few minutes, came out and ushered us through the front doors. There are a lot of photos coming up, so I'll just post them and comment here and there.
This next photo shows the use of the strategically placed fig leaf on their sculptures!
This is the ceiling in the Hall of Maps - so much gold and so ornate. It was incredible!
We then went into the Sistine Chapel. Picture taking was forbidden so here are a few I borrowed from the internet
The Chapel was the most spectacular work of art I've ever seen.
We then went on to St. Peter's Basilica. Words cannot describe the enormity or beauty of that structure. And my photos certainly cannot do it justice. My camera battery died while we were walking around inside, so I didn't get very many shots. A good reason to go back!
Michaelangelo's Pieta
Afterward, we strolled around St. Peter's Square and came upon the Pope's guards
That's our group!
And below is a man dressed as a Roman gladiator, who would pose with anyone for a price
And The Forum
The whole area looked like a bomb had been dropped on it.
The street in the background (below) is the same one I came back down as I left Rome at dawn on my way to the airport two days later - what a beautiful sight these ancient ruins were at sunrise without any traffic or huge crowds of people!
The "Wedding Cake"
That evening, we had dinner at the same restaurant as the night before which was the first of two nights I would have pasta alla carbonara for dinner. Hey, when in Rome - and it did not dissappoint!
Tuesday, May 31 - The Villa Borghese, Rome
On the advice of one of my co-workers, I made advance reservations to tour the Villa Borghese Museum and Gallery, which includes the largest public park in Rome. Created by Cardinal Scipione Borghese in the 1600's, this elegant park has a lake, plus a number of temples, fountains, statues, and several museums.
While touring the Gallery, I was very intrigued by the statue of Apollo and Daphne created by Gian Lorenzo Bernini. This life-size marble sculpture, begun by Bernini at the age of twenty-four and executed between 1622 and 1625, has always been housed in the same villa, but originally stood on a lower and narrower base set against the wall near the stairs. Consequently anyone entering the room first saw Apollo from behind, then the fleeing nymph appeared in the process of metamorphosis: bark covers most of her body, but Apollo's hand can still feel her heart beating beneath it. Thus the scene ends by Daphne being transformed into a laurel tree to escape her divine aggressor.
It was a beautiful piece. Below are the grounds surrounding the Gallery
Afterward, I had lunch at another sidewalk osteria
The lasagna was made with fresh sheets of pasta and the melanzane and cipollini onions were roasted with garlic and dressed with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. And the whole thing only cost 7 Euro! I sat outside at a small table on the sidewalk, enjoying my meal and thinking I could get used to this lifestyle. And at that point, I decided I enjoyed Rome much more than Florence. But that's just me. Seeing what both offered was well worth battling the crowds and the heat!
As I walked around the neighborhood, I spotted another wall that must have played a part in surrounding ancient Rome.
And here is my palazzo a Roma!
That night was pasta alla carbonara #2 at Cafe Veneto, an upscale restaurant on the main boulevard. Pricey, but it was our last night in Italy!
Early the next morning, my shuttle picked me up at the hotel and I was off to the airport for my 13 hour flight back to Los Angeles. I took home so many wonderful memories of Italy. This trip was far more than I had ever imagined it would be and one I will never forget!
Arrivederci l'Italia! Rinvierò!
